"3 Banjaare" on astonishing expedition into Seven Sisters's Land from Bangalore - 9

March 19, 2017

Mrs. Tarzan woke up with a smile on her face, without any sign of fury infested usually by a shrieking alarm. And why not ?? Today is Mr. Tarzan’s birthday and she had been running through a number of plans since past evening that she even had dreamed about ideas for the celebration. Every-time she plans out something different for him and this time mother nature had helped her planning a once-in-a-lifetime day for Mr. Tarzan. She had drawn basic plan leaving rest to the destiny to surprise them.

It was 7 am and till half an hour she was watching TV while hiding behind the layers of blankets,  planning in the background and waiting for Mr. Tarzan to open his eyes. In this whole duration she had wished Mr. Tarzan 10 times plus once in the midnight, while he was sleeping like a baby yet responding every time with a smile and a nod saying thank you with unclear speech due to closed mouth. Only Mrs. Tarzan can interpret his talks in sleep.

Finally she woke him up with a cup of hot tea at 8 am. It was freezing inside that even the hot water kept for drinking a few hours ago was ice cold and couldn’t be gulped. It was then she understood why the hotel provided them with hot water for drinking instead of packaged ones because she never attempted to drink water after getting up due to the rush. She then pushed aside the curtains from window panes for an outside view and was overwhelmed with valley and peaks peeking behind an unfashioned lane of houses, looking like a vanilla ice cream decorated with plenty of pines so loaded with snow that it was hard to make out if there was any vegetation there. The houses on street had collected enough snow to last till next winter and the snowmen were guarding them for each house. The streets were full of vehicles which were laying as sloth like the previous day.

As per the plan they would be visiting LumLa which is a small village in Tawang constituency and also the home town for one of the staff member. Hence she was appointed as the guide by madam owner of the hotel perhaps thinking that she will be pleased to see her hometown and will be good accomplice to Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan. Both of them wanted to take Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan to Zemithang which is at extreme end of Tawang on similar lines as BumLa, but the owner being their mother-in-Tawang was much worried to let them go on the dangerous roads which might have become extremely difficult in this weather. She instructed the young girl to not go far beyond  Dolma Lhagang (white Tara devi stupa) around 40-45km from there, or may be till Bap Teng Kang (BTK) waterfalls around 80km and be back safely before sunset.

Mrs. Tarzan had ordered Puri and paratha for a heavy breakfast before setting off the adventure. This is the first time in this journey that their backseat and the trunk were able to breathe with only required luggage being stuffed in, plus a guest at the passenger seat. The owner also wished to come along but was occupied with her work so she had promised to be at the birthday party in the evening.

So Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan started with their guest finally by 10 am. This is the 4th time they were going on same highway from Tawang in the direction of Jang. The weather appeared to be quiet with no intention of another storm so Mrs. Tarzan was hoping that they might not have to return to Tawang skidding off over the snow like previous day. The Dolma was around 40 km from there and the road was supposed to be in very bad shape but at least not snowy, that’s what they were informed. It was going to be much shorter travel for Mr. Tarzan who was used to be on ride whole day and night.

Mrs. Tarzan was enjoying the distant peaks and wondering which is Sela and which one is LumLa and whether one can also spot BumLa. The girl-scout was also enthusiastic matching with Mrs. Tarzan’s level and pointed at one of them as Sela. Mrs. Tarzan was glad to know and after each turn was recognising the Sela top and even declared that the weather is better than yesterday so they can try to leave Tawang tomorrow morning. Again !!

After around 10kms there was a steep hairpin bend at the right, which might go unnoticed had the girl was not with them. This was road to LumLa. It was a highway which rather looked no close to a highway but like a razed away hillock. There were constructions going on, be it the road itself or the infrastructure, which even included a building which would be a hospital as the girl-scout informed them.

A few kms ahead they entered into a no-human zone which only had valleys and hills till the horizon. Both the ladies were cheerful and were enjoying the journey, they would occasionally open the windows inviting cool fresh breeze inside. Further ahead, as they turned up to the other side of the hill, they could spot a couple of small villages located sparsely over the neighbouring hills.

There were a couple of taxis also on road carrying people over the top of them. The road was rickety and dusty and had no traces of snow but only greenery in the surrounding.

The construction work was in progress on the road which was in good shape for short stretches and rest had no road at all. At one of the passage leading to another hill, there were several labors at work on the hill for cutting the stones and whole of the process was monitored by BRO. The girls gang relaxing for work break told them there was a landslide yesterday and they could also get clear indications by the evidences on road. This was a much narrow road and was more dangerous and prone to slides. And hence it is very off beat journey and not so popular for tourists, and thus was more adored by Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan as they fall in love with offbeat hidden places at once.

At one point on the road it was leading to the other hill with a river flowing in between. This was the most trickiest part of the journey so far that day, as the road had several craters and the junction was a small waterfall gushing over the highway. Though there was vent to make the water rush below the road, the water was spilling all over the road to make it boggy and Mr. Tarzan was going through the same experience which they had plenty of while they were roaming on bike in Ladakh, only that this time he has four wheels instead of twin. There were a couple of more instances in their journey.

They were moving from one hill to another and were able to see the road they came from on the parallel hills among the dense green forests separated by deep valleys. After driving for 2 hours, Mrs. Tarzan screamed to pull over. As Mr. Tarzan stepped out and stretched he was diving into the narrow lush green valley so closely guarded by the hills on opposite side that can send thrills while looking down. The place was adorable for all of them and the girl-scout was smiling with pride.

Moving further after couple of minutes halt, they were continuing on the same rickety road. Some patches were well built though with very frequent turns they couldn’t speed up and even while held with the seat belts were falling here and there. The ride was close enough to a roller coaster in natural habitat. At other times the road would vanish into dusty boulder that you would have to literally guess if that was meant to be a road or it was supposed to be a closed road.

At one such patch, it was so much rough with a big boulder, and the path was taking a hairpin bend into another mountain fold standing opposite covered with a mesh and several men at work from the top to bottom. At once it looked like the end of the journey to Mrs. Tarzan while she was watching the men on the road if they were trying to stop them, but dancing and bouncing they went past the site. She wore a worried face until she noticed a good patch of road a few meters ahead.

After travelling for another half an hour, Mrs. Tarzan who was eying on the valley noticed something and called to pull over. The girl-scout has cheerfully smiling at her and they both giggled. It was then revealed the spot was a favorite view point for locals which the girl-scout was fond of and was letting out all she could tell in her broken hindi.

The wind was gushing swiftly, though the opposite mountains were not very far across the narrow valley which was richly flourishing with a sparkling river surrounded by the several lush green folds of those mountains hoisting a weak line which seemed to be same road which carried Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan into this world. The place also had a cabin and the stairs to climb down to have more closer look into the valley and then they noticed a small waterfall among one of the folds so beautifully carved by mother nature that it resembled couple of such unique falls on the journey around Rohtang pass.

The folds of the mountains were vanishing further right into wider area with distant fading peaks and then again to other nearby peak which was clear enough to notice a bunch of bright colored houses, probably it was on the same mountain itself where Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan were standing. On the left there stood a gompa far far away at the edge of the same mountain where they stood and the prayer flags swirling at the meeting of both the mountains.

They had clicked several pictures of the place with all the objects in the frame as focus !!

It had been the most silent road they had been to, other than the Rangdum-Padum villages in Ladakh that they felt like roaming around in their own reign with limitless boundaries. The path at times were similar to the ones in wildlife sanctuaries where all you see is narrow lanes with dusty stoned roads having messed up dense trees carelessly marking the contours, at other times it was smooth twirling ride landing into an army of trees each bowing to their welcome. And in the name of villages there were just a few houses you can count on your finger tips !!

When they were few kms to LumLa, there was a small village which had a steep and more narrower road going down on the left. The signboard read Bhutan !!

Ah ! so this was the road to Bhutan around 30km from there which Mrs. Tarzan was trying to locate in the google maps but it was too ignorant of google baba to take note of it. The girl-scout added that this road goes to border villages from where the trade happens among neighboring villages, that no one would really care who is from Bhutan or who is from India. Such harmony is peculiar and very blissful indeed.

It had been late morning when they were finally near to LumLa as they can sense they were climbing up and up into more narrower roads with very frequent turns overlooking the green valleys and in few minutes they were in front of local market around a small circle and a small beautiful gate.

From here one way would lead to Zemithang enrouting BTK falls, but as they had planned to visit the Dolma they took the other way which was on same lines to other mountains roads. They had captured several glimpses of the Dolma on their way while running from one mountain to the other; he looked so calm and energetic to give them enough positive vibes. Mrs. Tarzan was glad to choose and plan Mr. Tarzan’s birthday with such blessings.

All they had seen was snowclad passes since past few days, that this pass was not feeling like a pass until after continuing for couple of kms the valley on their left was steeper and deeper enough to send the chills while they were hiccuping on the dusty craters on a single lane road. Mrs. Tarzan didn’t dare to look down like she did on Kemmanagundi road while on their bike tour to the peak which was steeper and rougher in same manner, and got anxious over a drain in the middle of such road covered by a stone slab so that any miss or slip may result in a deadlock and a complete halt over there into a deeper valley.

The girl-scout was leading the direction and eventually they ended near a school. She was excited about the school and took them along to park nearby on this flat small edge. While Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan were looking around she returned and was disappointed. Actually she wanted to take them inside and also to view the other side of the valley which was apparently Bhutan !!

Anyways, they both consoled her and resumed for Dolma visit. It was a couple of kms from there on another division of road which was again steep with couple of houses on the narrower edges. At the end it was smoother and devoid of obstruction guarded by taller flags on the edges and just a deeper green valley with full view of mountains spread afar engulfed with thin sheet of mist and further distant peaks.

As they reached top, they can see a wider vicinity with the edges touching the peaks at the horizon.They stopped in front of big golden gate which was under construction with a low peripheral wall which was supposed to be inaugurated by the Dalai Lama himself in few days, as informed by the locals. The gate was also under renovation with several men at work and few perched on top of it painting with vibrant colors while listening to music, probably on the radio. Upon entering it, it opens up into a vast ground at the end of which stood a big white structure with dolma seated atop.

They were walking towards Dolma, fascinated while looking around; it felt like they were in the middle of the sky with the edges of their ground merging into the horizon touching the nearby peaks. On their left were gompas and prayer flags at the edge and right side was merging into horizon. On reaching the Dolma, they entered inside to pray and later seated amid numerous pots outside, few of which bloomed with flowers.

The girl-scout interrupted to climb over to Dolma to which they were surprised whether it is really allowed. She informed them she used to climb up with her friends and had also enquired meanwhile with the local lady. So, they all climbed over and were at the feet of the Dolma within minutes, from where it felt like his own piece of heaven which he granted them as his blessings.

The view which they experienced from the ground was exaggerated and was beyond their imagination for such a small piece of land as sustainable and beautiful in itself. From the back of the Dolma you can see several criss cross roads which apparently belong to Bhutan as informed by their girl-scout. From the left of Dolma you can see that school which Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan went to few minutes ago and beyond it there also was a helipad. From all other sides you can only see this heaven merging into the horizon.

Upon climbing down, Mr. Tarzan stood next to the prayer flag at the edge in front of Dolma, overwhelming at the view from the top feeling the fresh air thumping his face and twirling his hair while squinting elatedly on Mrs. Tarzan who was wearing her shoes watching Mr. Tarzan joyfully and equally overwhelmed with the thought of party in the evening and even capturing him secretly with her camera.

While returning back to the entrance gate, they can hear radio playing a familiar music which then was taken over by the voices coming from the top of the gate, from the men perched over it. Momentarily, Mrs. Tarzan remembered it was a folk song which also had inspired a bollywood number. She also starting humming in hindi while the men were singing the original from top of the gate in very melodious voice that was echoing in the valley below and the mountains nearby. What joy can be parallel to the rhythm there, be it best of the clubs or DJs.

It was already noon when they had started returning and were near the LumLa circle in few minutes. Mrs. Tarzan wished to see the BTK falls and continue the journey while the girl-scout and Mr. Tarzan were thinking about reaching back in daylight. The girl-scout was obedient of the hotel owner and reminded that she was told to get Mr. and Mrs Tarzan safely in the daylight though she also wanted to see more with them and have more fun, while Mr. Tarzan was thinking that with the girl they can’t take risk of wandering in dark while her owner was so such worried about all of them. So they all decided to turn back.

The return journey was comparatively quick on the same rickety road as per the universal law of journeys while they were crossing same valleys and forests and streams.

Mr. Tarzan was flooded with birthday wishes as soon as he returned into the network while approaching Tawang but it was Mrs. Tarzan who was overwhelmed.

It was 3 pm when they were entering Tawang; when the sun had started peeping out of dense clouds spreading some warmth, Mrs. Tarzan pulled over Mr. Tarzan for another stop by a milestone overlooking beautiful snow valley which had started exhibiting vibgyor in the warmth of sun. The road was still slushy with snow melting, however that did not make significant loss to the snow sheet wrapped over Tawang but indeed it looked different yet cold that in couple of minutes they surrendered to the cold wave to rush inside to the warm blower. In fact, every time they entered Tawang it had exhibited different type of beauty.

On reaching hotel, the owner was waiting for them anxiously and was glad to see them again, fit and fine. It had already growing colder and they were hungry, so they were offered nice masala tea. Mrs. Tarzan usually doesn’t like tea outside as she has her own preferences and likes what she prepares at home but all the time during the trip she was taking tea just to keep herself warm(except the one at Siliguri). This time tea was better in their 4 days stay. The owner also got some homemade snacks for them and asked them to be seated next to the heater in the dining area where her staff was enjoying and relaxing. Mrs. Tarzan was engaged in talking with her new friends while Mr. Tarzan was just watching her enjoying the warmth, but was later dragged by her to take her for shopping in nearby local market, listening to which the owner asked her other girl to take them for shopping. This girl was matching Mrs. Tarzan on talking levels and was wise and clever(and bit lazy as per her owner) while the other girl was quiet, innocent and very obedient, so different from each other yet equally charming .

It was only an hour by then when they left and this girl was taking them to shops and bargaining, and Mrs. Tarzan then revealed her shopping list which was a party list basically !!

The market had few people over the iced road which was basically reformation of melted snow, the shops were covered with snow that even after cleaning some traces took shelter in all possible gaps while some was dripping from the roof.Each shop was welcoming them with a huge pile parked in front of their doors. Mrs. Tarzan had already started feeling the chills while walking down the street.

They got into the best bakery but it seemed they couldn’t get cake which needed prior order so Mrs. Tarzan took all available flavours of pastries for all of them including staff and a musical candle, and snacks, and balloons. Then they got rope for the tyres just in case if needed for their return journey the next day. By then, the sun had already sunk down and as per the initial plan Mrs. Tarzan wanted to visit the Tawang memorial but she was also craving for shopping cute little dresses the local girls wear. Looking at her, and laughing loud inside, Mr. Tarzan solved her puzzle taking her for shopping. They visited several shops but she could not get what she wished for, yet she got one local skirt for herself. By this time it was complete dark and cold had increased several folds and even the shops were getting closed one by one while it was only 6.30 or so in the evening. Mrs. Tarzan was wondering this time when people start leaving from office in Bangalore, these people had already shut the business and go home. The final stop for the shopping was a fine wine. The girl took them to a local liquor shop which was managed by a woman herself with all her collection lined up on the walls without any need of freezer, this amazed Mrs. Tarzan. Afterall, it was already near 0 degrees, so who needs a fridge ?? They got some fine bottles for celebration and returned back. All this time they looked for an ATM but surprisingly that was also shut down leaving them with little cash worrying Mr. Tarzan. Anyways, in worst case they can make hotel payment by online transfer but that was also bleak possibility due to network issue in such a weather.

After they reached the hotel, Mr. Tarzan went for a walk and also tried possible ways to get the payment done. Meanwhile, Mrs. Tarzan started for party celebration.

The owner said that this is their hotel for the evening and can do whatever they wished. So elated, she started decorating and filling the balloons which was also joined by the girls and owner. The owner told her the legend about the Dolma and also that the sculptor was supposed to make the exact replica of Dolma which was engraved in cucumber but due to travel it was shrunk and hence the impacted the proportions, hence the Dolma in LumLa is a bit out of proportion as compared to the other replicas..

They played, talked, laughed and poked few balloons also !!

When Mr. Tarzan returned, he was surprised and overwhelmed, he didn’t expect this much and even that Mrs. Tarzan would involve the whole staff who were also delighted in this special affair. There was one more surprise which was awaiting for both of them, Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan were invited for dinner by the owner, the local cuisine which was all prepared by herself !!

After freshening up the party started, they all had fun with jokes flowing around. After candle blowing, the musical candle was adding the background chorus to their laughs and talks. All of them enjoyed pastries and snacks and then started the face decoration initiated by the owner.

This followed a round of drink and also a small recording of those moments and several pictures. The table was getting arranged for Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan as if they were the finest guest for the dinner that couldn’t be compared with the hospitality in five stars. And the dinner was awesome, full of love and warmth which can’t be bought at any price.

It was such a unique experience for Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan celebrating “the birthday” with the complete strangers who turned into another family in a far far away land. No other celebration can ever match the emotions and joy and the warmth of this celebration which they both had engraved in their memories forever !!

Part 8 Part 10