"3 Banjaare" on astonishing expedition into Seven Sisters's Land from Bangalore - 10

Day 11

The morning had a slow start with hangover which was not over yet even at 7 am, but they had to leave Tawang and this time they hoped they would get safely to the other side without having to return again due to climatic extremes which they did 2 days back.

Post effect of last evening was prevalent as Mr. Tarzan had slept like a horse after a happening and sensational day, while Mrs. Tarzan had slept with content heart. Another birthday passed after much vigor, yet she already started anticipating for Mr. Tarzan’s next birthday with better planning and celebration as she always felt that her celebration was not up to the mark and she always wanted it to best-est of the best. See, that’s the genetic problem with her :)

With dreams of BumLa and its beautiful lakes Mrs. Tarzan said goodbye to Tawang with heavy heart. And similar were the feelings of the staff who were their family on a distant mountain not willing to let go of Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan while still cherishing the memories of moments they all had spent together. With teary eyes Mrs. Tarzan picked couple of balloons hanging from the ceiling who were the spectators of such a bonding in such an extreme climate among two different clans of people so different in every aspects having only one thing in common, i.e. the purity in their hearts. The balloons were seated in the back seat, looking at which the girls also tried to stuff more of balloons there but Mrs. Tarzan denied while watching them beautifully hanging in the dining area where they belonged and would remind of Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan’s presence. The photos were exchanged and even Mrs. Tarzan got a calendar as a memento from the owner who was worrying about safe journey for them and also insisted to keep her informed....and one formal goodbye !

As they were moving down with each bend, Mrs. Tarzan was watching the peaks and the valleys with incompleteness due to the guilt of missing visit to war memorial and BumLa which were her prime attraction of the entire trip as well as content of having thrilling experience in a very unique flavor of Tawang. With mixed emotions she was quietly adoring the distant peaks promising herself to come back again to see Tawang from another angle, another view.

The weather was warmer comparatively with sun occasionally showing its presence strengthening Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan’s hope of getting through safely this time on Sela Pass.

They crossed the little bridge just before Jang and reached the Jang check-post in couple of hours. The greenery in the town was vibrant in sunshine with the leaves and grasses still bearing pearls of dew. The washed away look of the woods after the rains was enticing despite of the rickety roads that Mrs. Tarzan started looking forward to more of adventure on their journey.

After the checkpost they started climbing up towards Sela. It's view was similar to 2 days ago, the clouds hovering on snowy peaks with misty valley along the same curling roads which had accumulated treasures of snow close to it; the treasure was increasing as they were climbing higher and higher and the temperature was dropping lower and lower. A couple of times Mrs. Tarzan pulled over for capturing the breathtaking mountains and valleys, it was so beautiful that no one can control the greed of spending more time admiring the beauty by just sitting and watching calmly.

By 9:15 am, they reached Jaswantgarh War memorial from where the actual adventure starts on heavily slushy road decorated with water logged craters and guarded by snow walls. This time Mr. Tarzan was much more experienced with his driving-in-snow skills and was taming Cheetah very tactfully with a worried Mrs. Tarzan having stern face who was craning forward to watch the craters and snow. That 1 km stretch was somehow over in few minutes and they were roaming on Jainath Bridge which was smoother comparatively with fluffy snow. So, now they were standing at the foot of Sela and still have several kms to ride to the top. It was early in the morning and the temperature was much lesser for ice to melt however the road was slushy enough. Sun had probably gone for breakfast giving a chance to the clouds to show their presence while they were passing through the snow hedges contouring the road. Due to snow, the road under construction had disappeared leaving the slushy off-roading as the only option to move on making it rather one-way. Mrs. Tarzan inquired,”Do we need ropes on tyres now ?” Mr. Tarzan focusing on path ahead replied calmly “No”. Listening to which she sat back quietly watching the hedges of snow by road, which was increasing in height with every curve bringing them closer to the top. They were in snow world with everything sparkling white and even the vehicles were in veils of snow due to mild snowing. At times when a vehicle from opposite side would come in front which only happened 4-5 times in the whole stretch, either has to stop several feet before, crouching in every centimeter of space on road it could occupy which would also result in crashing the snow piles. At each such times Mrs. Tarzan would crane over to intercept if there could be boulder underneath and would smile on each escape.

Crawling over the snow they reached Sela top and pulled over to have good glance at mesmerizing view of several peaks criss-crossing all around the vast flat snow surface(though there were depression along the road but snow had already erased all the differences of altitude).

In few more minutes they stopped in front of army canteen at the Sela top just beneath a grand entrance gate welcoming into Tawang from opposite side and this side for West Kameng district. With a crust of snow and mist it was looking mysterious, but would be bright enough in summer for all the colors it was painted with. Beside this gate were signboards mentioning Sela Pass top and further right was a memorial in pure white for the legendary acts.

The temperature was reading -4 degrees and time 11 am. As Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan stepped in the mist the chill break down though their spines to their feet. It was hardly a few feet away but they couldn’t identify the entrance into the canteen. Actually it was a bit different in architecture, looking more like a  Kothi with a small door in the lobby at a corner in the hidden side followed by couple of doors adjoining small flight of stairs against one of side wall. Confused, they looked around to ask someone if the canteen is open and in that case which is the way to it but no one was visible. After a pause of few seconds Mr. Tarzan decided to peek where the stairs go and amused to see some chairs at the end and at same time a warm smile directed them to climb over.

It was a small sit over with couple of small plastic tables and chairs with a small tv at the farther end. There were couple of windows for a misty view of outside where one can watch how mist can engulf whole vehicle at regular intervals. Towards the stairs was a cafe coffee day machine along the counter which showcased several eatables at which their eyes were glued for few seconds with startled laugh to see a proof of technology that too from a certain brand in such inhabitant place. Good for our fellow army men.

Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan took tea and samosa which is their favorite snacks and a bowl of hot noodles but all of these together could not restrict the chills they were getting while seated on ice cold chair for half an hour and watching snow and mist from the window or occasionally TV news. It was another memorable span of time while being with army hospitality and talking to them after the one in Ladakh when they took shelter under army camp during one snowfall while shivering.

There is also public convenience at opposite side of the road but it was unrecognizable at that time with thick layer of ice covering the floor whichever was left in between walls of ice, that even with her favorite pair of 10k worth shoes(as she always reminds while taking care of shoes more) were skidding. On approaching the shed and trying to push the door the view was indeed mesmerizing and could not be witnessed again. There were hills of snow with layered plateau of ice which also engulfed ceiling and amid all that was trying to show its presence was a small hole of toilet seat. Even Ice Age movies could not design such a toilet. It was a real challenge to complete the task.

In the attempt to reach there one lady had slipped but was rescued by Mrs. Tarzan midway, while Mr. Tarzan laughed and surprised at the fact that the one who went skidding was preventing someone else to fall. The frightened lady did not dare go inside.

It had been already more than 45 mins there and Mr. Tarzan started to worry for Mrs. Tarzan due to thin air and freezing snow, as she is still a baby. So they started off, climbing down Sela through the snow laid hillocks with snow railings over same damp snowy road. This side road was not that rough and within a few kilometers the snow started thinning. Meanwhile, they crossed their first encounter with snow on this stretch 4 days ago, a  stoppage which resembled fairy land to make Mrs. Tarzan fall in love with it so much to jump out without woolens in a -3 degrees temperature. It was entirely different under a blanket of snow that they couldn’t recognize and only upon reaching the army base could realize that it had passed. The road and it’s view looked very different from their memory of 4 days back. They crossed helipad while descending further down and then jumping from one range to another reached another army base.

Mrs. Tarzan was enjoying the views all around with her soulful melodies accompanying Mr. Tarzan crossing each and every inhabitant of this magnificent land. He took a short tea break where a swarm of army was relaxing and relishing tea, and also called a cold Mrs. Tarzan to join him.

Mrs. Tarzan made Mr. Tarzan to stop by the green tall coniferous again as she couldn’t resist the temptation to capture them through her lens and even wished to walk down into the woods had it been some other time.

The drizzle had already flourished mist in the valley making it so adorable while crawling past the green trees. The aroma of moist leaves had already boosted their moods which was topped by rhythmic numbers on the play.

It was already late afternoon when they were at Dirang and mysteriously got surrounded by dark clouds. Though there was no snow as they had already descended from the mountain but the clouds were maintaining the chill in the breeze. It is so much fun to ride among the lush green coniferous swaying in the drizzle with open windows feeling the breeze on your face. This time they took the parallel route which passes through the town as earlier they had kept the far one which diverts into the Sangti Valley.

Passing through crooked streets, it seemed to be comparatively bigger town and looked to have more facilities than bomdila .  The river at the far left among the rally of mountains looked calm under hovering clouds and eventually got disappeared behind the criss-cross of the mountains.

Slowly the sunshine started to peep as it was time for sun to say goodbye and made sure to make its presence felt by they reached near Bomdila. However, they were halted suddenly as one road roller was on its way which quickly built up a long queue, due to road construction. Remembering from their previous encounter on this road, it was now all built up in 4 days till Dirang with just few kms stretch remaining before entering Bomdila. Due to this pause, Mrs. Tarzan realized that she was hungry. Reaching out to the back seat, she picked the laddoos and pushed one into Mr. Tarzan’s mouth without asking and started nibble on one herself. As per his tendency to not sit idle, Mr. Tarzan started walking around while Mrs. Tarzan noticed a small kid may be 5 yrs old climbing steep narrow mud stairs to his home in a blink of an eye, which should take her at least couple of minutes while carefully watching her steps and minding skidding. And then, there was another boy running down the valley and then back to the highway at least couple of times carrying something probably household. Pahadi bachhee !!

They were stuck there for around an hour until the green signal when road-roller had done enough work on the newly paved road. By then the chill had already started creeping in. The delay had made Mr. Tarzan bit furious to overlook the Bomdila monastery so as to keep him on schedule. Anyways, Mrs. Tarzan was already tired enough with doing nothing that she couldn’t persuade him to stop by and climb over, saying to herself, "Next time in blooming season !!"

They crossed the small town of Bomdila in next couple of minutes and the sun had already settled behind the nearby mountain but would play peekaboo from the depressions among the cliffs. Mrs. Tarzan started feeling very hungry and was expecting reaching Dahung Haat soon where they had snack full evening 4 days back while reaching Bomdila in freezing cold with starving stomachs among the army brothers, but every minute seemed like hours to her. The Tenga valley and haat and this place, both are equipped with all necessities, if required, for lone travelers like them and is also swarming with Army. As they were approaching the place Mrs. Tarzan was trying to spot it correctly but it was quite tough to recognize the place in light had she not remembered the name and big board engrossed with it . It was looking entirely different with a lone look. They stopped and parked at wide open space at the roadside but were advised to park at nearby spot meant for parking. However, as they went near the facility it was locked, even the grocery store was locked and so was the ATM. Turned out that Monday is a holiday ...bad luck ...sigh !

So, again, it was Mrs. Tarzan’s laddo and namkeen on rescue for not sure how long.

While the sky had started turning violet they were racing with themselves on the zig zag road, occasionally challenged by army fleet. The mountains started wearing darker shades of brown with the swaying woods turning to olive shades vanishing in the dark while they were twirling at fast pace on the curvy smooth road until they crossed Tenga. There is a point in the valley where it opens up wide valley surrounded by the mountains and small water streams pour lavishly into the river adding to the magnificent white river. Mrs. Tarzan would not miss this chance even if Mr. Tarzan was in racing mood. They stopped by and spent couple of minutes adoring the dusky look of the valley with a quick chit chat, however interrupted by Mr. Tarzan due to darkness spreading around, as he wanted to travel as far as they could before its complete dark.

The road was smooth so far but it was supposed to be hiccuping after few kms and later complete disaster which they knew and were familiar with. Slowly the darkness had spread all over and Mr. Tarzan drove so fast till he felt to be recharged by tea to drive in the dark. He stopped by a bunch of small shops and also invited Mrs. Tarzan for tea. Beside this place was a small hillock enlightened with several lights lined up from the bottom to the top with a temple perched atop which was chiming with bells and chanting music that echoed in the whole valley. Mrs. Tarzan later told Mr. Tarzan if she could visit the temple when they were passing in front of it, listening to which he asked her why she did not tell him earlier. Actually she was tired and cold to climb up the stairs though she was fascinated by looking at it. There are several stuffs you can do or wish to do during the journey but it is not always possible to do everything, you need to choose which one suits most at the moment and if it is North East India you always miss something !!

It was full dark and the headlights could throw light up-to few feet without giving any clue about what lies beyond couple of inches off the narrow mountain road or how deep the valley is, adding to the thrill no one could be seen far far away while they were zooming amid the dark forests. However, playing music was adding to the fun of the drive.

Once they saw a pair of light among the trees, guessing about approaching vehicle; but no one would be seen in next couple of minutes, then again another pair of light would flash but no one would approach. It was mysterious light for couple of more times until they finally discovered a truck off the road probably due to break down, with its folks lying outside on a sheet lighting up twigs and branches next to them. Mr. and Mrs. Tarzan laughed out loud looking at each other.

Jungle is always fantasy for Mr. Tarzan and slowly adopted by Mrs. Tarzan as well, and driving on lonely mountain roads amid the woods under a starry night accompanied with their favorite music is unmatched to anything else.

In around an hour they were near Sessa, but before that they had to pass a challenge of huge road construction activity where the road had disappeared just beyond the contours of spotting headlight, making Mr. Tarzan  to take a sudden jilted turn on the steep boulder-ed path. During the day time it was easier but in the dark you can only guess though you know approximately where it should fall. But the thrill was inevitable.

Crawling for another half an hour they were at Tippi Orchid Research center following which there were few more facilities which also housed several plants and lights, that making decision of categorizing them a pending one. Now the civilization had started and becoming more dense while reaching Bhalukpong checkpost. By the time they reached, it was already 8 pm and it was time for halt for good food and sound sleep but Mr. Tarzan was in high spirits and wanted to reach Itanagar which is a capital city of this majestic land. This idea was initially infested by Mrs. Tarzan during some of their crazy talk  which was like, “Let’s target Itanagar, if not comfortable we will halt anywhere in the mid.”

So, they were heading towards Itanagar with rumbling stomaches; with Mrs. Tarzan trying to find some hotel online being furious at Mr. Tarzan who had missed both lunch and dinner for them that day and a crazy Mr. Tarzan who was engrossed in self challenge. In 2 hours they were near Itanagar. The check-post was like a small toll beyond which was a four lanes highway . The drive was really relinquishing to Mr. Tarzan who had forgotten the taste of driving on highway in last 10 days. When they reached the city the quest for hotel location started, but to their disappointment it was a very small lodge on the first floor identified by a small sideboard and with shutters down. It was on a narrow lane engulfed by vehicles parked at the owner’s risk. Mr. Tarzan called and knocked at the door but it was silent which made them to have look around in search of another hotel nearby. But surprisingly the hotel gates were closed and even security was not willing to open.

Mr. Tarzan’s anger was at height for the first time in the journey and since it was midnight they had to halt there. Calling several times at the no. mentioned on voucher from the booked hotel was not answered, making them to reach out to customer care of Makemytrip. Well, after few minutes they got alternative arrangement but this had wasted more than half an hour till they finally stood in front of the alternative arrangement at 11.30 pm.

They were extremely tired and hungry and at this time no food could be available. Again, Mrs. Tarzan’s maggi came as savior. Which she prepared in an electric kettle. Though hungry, Mr. Tarzan couldn’t have much due to too terrible exertion and was force fed few chunks by Mrs. Tarzan. Hoping him to be better she slept after taking care of stuffs.

Part 9 Part 11